--===MGF Frequently Asked Questions===-- ===- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MGF FAQ Part I v3.03 - 16th January 1998 This site is entirely independent of the Rover Car Company and MG Cars. It is compiled by enthusiastic owners and represents additional advice for owners. It is not a substitute for the official MGF handbook and no responsibility is accepted for any loss or damage. Click the relevant topic to quickly jump to that area. -==Why are people flashing and waving at me?==- Something that you might not have known about when you bought your MGF was that all MG drivers acknowledge each other. It's taken a while, but many drivers of older MG's are quite willing to wave at the new kid! It doesn't matter who waves first but if you see another MG, F's and old MG's included, waving at you, it is polite to wave back. You might have to work a bit to be able to tell apart some of the earlier MG's but with a bit of practice you should become quite adept at spotting them! The flashing of headlights is also used to acknowledge other MG's. You have to be a little careful that a friendly flash at another MG isn't misinterpreted as an invitation for a Volvo to pull out in front of you! -==Fitting the Tonneau Cover==- 1. A recommended 5 minute procedure is: + fit one of two studs in doors + proceed to the other side slotting the beading around the back of the hood + pull this end of the beading giving tension to the 'wire in the slot and fit the stud in the door of this side + secure the cockpit studs 2. Another way recommended is to attach the loops and all press-studs first. Then pull the wire around one side of the car, working towards the centre. Then go to the other side of the car, and pull the wire from the centre and the door towards the other corner, KEEPING THE WIRE CLOSE TO THE BODY of the car, or it will jump out ! Finally an extra tug on the elasticized end will secure the last few inches; you will need to practise this once or twice, the technique is in the wrist action ! Authors Note: *I use the second way detailed above, and can get the cover on in a couple of minutes*. As of August 1998, there is a new style cover, which can be fitted this way: 1. Fix loops at each end over hood. 2. Fix central stud. 3. Fix the other two "top" studs. 4. Fix the door studs. 5. Open the boot, pull the cover through, give it a good yank to pull it all in place. 6. Shut the boot. -==Hood Closing ==- People have found that it helps to centralise the hood before closing the clips, do this by holding the center of the hood front rail and give it a good pull down for the last few inches, making sure that the fastening clips are fully open first. Then, keeping hold of the rail with one hand fasten the clips. On uneven ground where there is likely to be a slight degree of body twist it helps to locate and half fasten each clip before finally closing the clips into their locking position. -==What is the best way to clean the back window ? ==- 1. Carefully J. A clean sponge with clean dilute car shampoo. Wet the outside of the window first - use either a very light hose spray or a sprinkler on a watering can. 2. People have cleaned the inside with Mr Muscle window cleaner and paper towels. -==The soft top ==- As of July 1997, there is a new soft top, an evolution of the current roof, but with no seams along the top, and it reaches further over the sides . Be sure it is dry before leaving it down for extended periods, and if the car is new, take care to be sure the fabric folds correctly. Some people use Convertible top treatments, and some swear by Armor All. Any mild cleaner or protectorate should be safe to use. Test an inconspicuous spot to be sure! The BMW owners manual says that you shouldn't wash the soft top every time you wash the car, I assume similar advice holds good for MGF owners. -=Rattles in the hood=- _by Nigel Cliffe_ I've had a small rattle in my hood frame for a while. I decided that I might be better able to fix it than the dealer who has failed twice. Its most noticeable at 30-40mph on unclassified rural roads, where the road surface (many small dips and bumps, embryonic pot holes, etc) causes quite a bit of vibration. The rattle is where the central hood loop (just above and infront of your head with the hood up) joins the side components. Half opening the hood gives the best view of the components in question, and the best access for the fix. The hoop ends in a flat bar with a hole through it. There is a cross-headed screw with a big washer holding the hoop to the side frame. By moving the hoop gently, the source of the rattle is found to be where rests on the boss on the side frame. The fix: + Undo the cross-head screws. They were very tight on my car, and I needed the socket set to shift them (Yeah, proper MG owner - needs a socket set! ), and the correct sized cross-head bit. Using any old cross-headed screw driver will either wreck the screw, or the screw driver, or both. + Carefully pull the hoop off the boss on the side bar. + Wrap two or three turns of 10mm wide PTFE tape (sold at plumbers merchants and DIY stores) around the circumference of the boss. + Put the hoop back onto the boss. Trim the PTFE tape away from the front of the boss with a sharp knife. + Put the screw and washer back, and tighten. + Repeat on the other side of the car. + Drive along your favourite rough lane feeling satisfied at such a simple fix to an irratating rattle. The instructions for rattles apply to the original top, with seams running front-to-back above the occupants heads. The new type, seamless, was introduced in summer of 1997. Most, but not all, R plate cars have the new type. The main differences are the position of the side beams above the windows and the screws are now hexagon socket rather than cross-head. I think some of the screw heads are now hidden (facing outside the car rather than facing inwards). They should be accessable with the top 'half down'. I've not had need to make any adjustments to my new top, but a quick inspection suggests a basically similar construction, and if rattles develop, a similar approach to fixing the problem. -==Wing Mirrors ==- F heated wing mirrors are 'on whenever the engine is running -==Misting and the Rear Windscreen==- It mists a bit, particularly on cold damp days with two damp occupants. However, point the centre vents at it, turn on the fan and it will clear. Its not as good as a glass screen with a heating element, but its acceptable. Concentrate on getting clear front and side screens (using side ventilators), before turning to the rear. On a long run, its not a problem, once clear it will stay clear with minimal air flow. On a longish high speed trip when you want the roof up, try lowering the rear screen for some ventilation without wind buffeting. -==Running In ==- See page 49 of the manual. The engine, gearbox, brakes and tires need time to `bed-in' and adjust to the demands of everyday motoring. During the first 600 miles (1,000 km) it is essential that you drive with consideration for the running-in process and heed the following advice: + DO NOT allow the engine to exceed 3000 rev/min in any gear. + DO NOT operate at full throttle in any gear. + DO NOT allow the engine to labour in any gear. + AVOID heavy breaking. After the running-in distance has been completed, engine speeds may be gradually increased. Contributed by Graeme Bishko The manual also states that you should allow the brakes time to bed in before any heavy braking. -==Heated Washer Jets ==- If the temperature drops *well below* freezing and you drive, the nozzles will freeze. If you have enough alcohol in your screen wash (you need >50% in some cases) the pipes and bottle shouldn't freeze up but the pump is not strong enough to remove the plug of ice from the jets. The jets will not defrost on their own because there is no hot engine part within 1 meter of them. The problem is that the action of the air flow over the jets evaporates the antifreeze from the screen wash in the jets themselves. This happens in other cars, but the heat from the engine quickly thaws the plug of ice. With the engine in the back obviously this will not happen in the F. The solution is heated wash jets. These are available and you should consider them far ahead of cosmetic (if rather nice) accessories such as high level stop lights or leather trim. It helps that they are around £ 80.00 including fitting. If your dealer denies knowledge tell him to look on the MGF or Rover 200 accessory list under H for Heated Washer Jets _ part number_ VUB100220. Contributed by Graeme Bishko. -==Leaks ==- There are a number of things to check if your F leaks 1. The rubber seals on the sides of the hood, at the front, are made such as to fit into a similar seal on the windscreen pillars and this must be done when the hood is raised to make it water-tight. 2. There are two tiny rubber triangles on the corner of the roof. Both of these must lie inside the rubber on the windscreen/door when fitting the roof. 3. If you have water running down the inside of the glass, it may find it's way to the inside of the door trim and discharge into the car between the trim and the inside face of the door. This is a known problem, going back to last winter. The leak is at the front of the window rubbing felt, via the door mirror retaining components.Capillary action takes the water through, and from there it runs down the inside of the door between metal and plastic trim. This can be fixed 4. The latest F's from the factory have two one cm squares cut into the door seals (above the kicking plate), these are to allow water to drain out of the car. Many dealers seem to be 'retro-fitting' this change to all cars. -==CD Player ==- + A Phillips "082" model CD changer has been fitted by an Phillips dealer with no problems. The 082 model is now in very short supply through the Phillips dealer network, and it now seems the only option is to get the official Rover part. + The CD player is mounted on the back wall of the boot on the left hand side. It hasn't caused any great problems being there. Plenty of room for one largish set of golf clubs and trolley and a weeks holiday in France for 2, although not at the same time. + One place to fit the CD as recommended by Rover is the left hand side of engine bulkhead in boot. + The only pain of it being in the boot is the need to open the boot then put the keys in the ignition to eject the cartridge. + Another place to fit the CD-Unit is in the glove compartment. It can be easily removed to drill and screw the Unit, and it is near the Radio so that it is easy to connect the cable. The only downside is that there is less space left for other things. _Olaf Columbus, Germany_ -==Door Windows ==- They are adjustable. There are adjusting devices in the door to move the glass in just about any direction. Gaps and water leaks around the glass to hood seal are not uncommon on cars which are incorrectly adjusted. -==Drainage Channels ==- It appears that occasionally the drainage channels get blocked, resulting in leaks. These are situated in the rubber seal at the very top of the A post just before it turns horizontal. Poke around and you will find them. -==Hard Top ==- There are two hard tops, the standard and Heritage. The Heritage top has two lines running down the roof which may deflect some of the rain water from landing on your knee when you open the door. he Heritage also has the following features: 1. They have small smart "MG" octogan badges to the rear of the door windows, in the black area of the top. Makes quite a difference to the appearance. 2. The headlining is different, leather I think on most (all?) and dark rather than light in colour. There are some new hard top seal kits coming out so that the dealer only adjusts the windows for the soft top. The kit then adjusts the hard top seals to fit against the window glass.If the window glass is adjusted properly the hard or soft top shouldn't leak. The hardtop does make the cockpit a lot quieter. If you do not order your MGF with a hard top but decide to add one later, there are two critical items you will need (in addition to the hard top), assuming the deal you strike with Rover does not include these items....... 1. The HRW dash switch, Rover p/n YUG 101480 cost approx £5.50 2. the RELAY, Rover p/n YWB 10012 cost approx £10.50 !!, it's Yellow and sits in the lower vacant (yellow) relay position under the dash. The wiring is already in-place behind the switch block (including window controls etc), simply pull facia forward and it will reveal the wiring behind. The spare connector is for the HRW, it plugs into the back of the HRW switch listed above. -==Towing ==- Guy Pigounakis (General Manager - MG) said at the Gaydon birthday do, that it would actually damage the car's sub frame to tow anything at all (certainly anything as heavy as a trailer, even an empty one) -==The F in America ==- This is a paraphrasing of comments made by Stephen Cox at an MG Car Club F register meeting in October 1996. Stephen Cox is an employee of MG Car Company which is a subsidiary of Rover. The MGF will not be sold in the USA within 6 years. 6 years is the expected life of the model so the MGF will never be sold in its present configuration in the USA. There are two main reasons for this. It was known from the start of the project that the car would not be sold in the US. The market is very tough and MG did not want to do what they did with the MGB and lose money on every car sold. Production was set at 16,000 units per year and it was recognised that it would take twice that number to satisfy the US in addition to the rest of the world. At this stage (1 year into sales) it would cost a huge amount to double production and doubling production would be the minimum step up in production. MG will not even consider this. The second reason (which is a supporting reason for the original decision not to go into the US) is one of legal problems with a dealer network left over from the Rover Sterling sales attempt in the 80's. This problem is not insurmountable but contributed to making the US market even less attractive. BMW's Z3 had absolutely nothing to do with the original decision. BMW had no connection with Rover back when the production levels were set and any information that MG might have had on the Z3 back then would have been very sketchy. In fact, in the UK, MG feels that they are picking up sales from the Z3 waiting list. There were a number of serious enquiries at the motor show from both prospective Z3 and Merk SLK customers. They even consider it likely that after driving the superior J F, some of these people may cancel their Z3 orders and stick with the F. Currently the only MGF's in the US belong to Ford and are kept in Detroit. MGF's were climate tested in the US but those ones are no longer there. The car is pretty much US spec already but there would need to be some reworking of bumpers and re-testing of materials. MG don't consider that it would cost very much to make the necessary changes. The long term plans are for MG to return to the US. This would be on the back of a concerted movement of a number of Rover models and will not be within the lifetime of the F. Obviously Stephen wouldn't say any more about future plans for MG but it was satisfying to hear that there are some! Disclaimer: The above constitutes the gist of what was said to me (and others). I was given permission to repeat all of this and to attach Stephen Cox's name to it. If any of this is untrue (or I misunderstood Stephen) I will withdraw it as soon as I am made aware of this. Contributed by Graeme Bishko. -==Real life MPG data. ==- I have so far completed roughly 12,000 miles in a 1.8i, and also in a VVC. I can say fairly easily that the sort of driving I performed in both cars has been roughly similar. In order to put the figures in to context I'll describe the types of driving I usually do. During weeks I drive daily to and from work. It is only 3 miles across Leeds so the car barely heats up. If I've done nothing else but this journey on a tank then my fuel figures are very poor. Another common journey is a 60 mile round trip to York. This is usually a B road blast and this seems to give better figures than the town driving but is highly dependent on the "right foot factor" :-). The VVC especially encourages one to stray into the 5500+ RPM zone which does have a noticeable effect on fuel consumption. The figures also include a few motorway runs and here the car gives its best figures. About 30% of the miles in both samples are motorway miles with the rest being split between daily commutes and fun runs. The best figures obviously come from motorway trips. The figures suggest that the VVC achieves a slightly better figure on the motorway than the 1.8i and I feel this is the case. The VVC, however, definitely uses more fuel when burbling around town before it warms up. I feel that if I were to restrict myself to around 6000 RPM then the VVC would deliver almost identical figures as the 1.8i on the back roads. Excursions up to the rev limiter are much more common in the VVC and I think this explains the slightly lower average figure. MGF Fuel Consumption _ 1.8i _ _ VVC _ Miles completed _ 11,340 _ _ 11,130 _ Best 39.21 42.75 Worst 26.89 24.91 _Average_ _33.73_ _31.96_ Contributed by Graeme Bishko. -==Filling with Petrol. ==- The petrol pump will quickly switch off if you just shove the nozzle fully in and squeeze. There are a number of solutions: 1. Insert the nozzle so that the only 1st lumpy bit (technical here) is over the lip of the petrol filler lip, squeeze gently and off you go, a medium filling rate means that you do not fill too quickly! 2. Turn the nozzle 90 degrees either clockwise or anti clockwise -==Mudflaps. ==- There are (at least) two ways to fit the mudflaps: 1. go to dealer, ask for MGF mudflaps to be fitted to the car. They might charge you around £80 for this. 2. go to dealer's parts department. Buy the flaps at parts prices, not accessory prices. Then you need a small sharp knife and a spanner. The knife is to remove some of the plastic wheel arch edging trim on the front wheels. The spanner to tighten the fixing bolts for the flaps. This will only be about £40 for front and rear mudflaps. -==Ride Height. ==- The correct height is 36.3cm from the center of the wheel hub to the wheel arch. The workshop manual states:- 1. Allow vehicle to stand in an unladen condition on a level surface. 2. Place steering in a straight ahead position. ** CAUTION** Do not check or adjust suspension trim height immediately after a road test. Allow vehicle to stand for at least two hours to allow vehicle temperature to equalise with air temperature. 3. Bounce the vehicle at both ends a number of times and allow to settle. 4. Roll vehicle forward 1 metre to relieve suspension stresses. 5. Push down on front of vehicle and release, allow suspension to return unassisted. Do not apply handbrake. 6. Measure both front trim heights, hub centre to top centre of the front wheel arch. Trim height should be 368mm +/- 10mm. Gerry McGoven (MGF Designer) was quoted as saying at a recent MGF advent (the Bronte Run, Yorkshire) that the ride height on the MGF is increased to get the cars onto the transporter. The dealer should then lower them to the height they are supposed to be. -==The Heater. ==- When you adjust the heater it only controls the water flow to the matrix and does not divert the air flow so you have to wait for the matrix to cool or heat, rather basic but it gives out enough heat to keep you warm even with the hood down in winter. -==The VIN Number. ==- The VIN number will tell you the following - according to the workshop manual. SARRDWBG/T B/M/J A D 000001 + S=Geographic area + A=Country + R=Manufacturer + RD=Marque/Model + W=Body/Trim Level + B=Body Style (2 door convertible) + G/T=Engine Type + G=K1.8 MPi + T=K1.8 VVC + B/M/J/X = steering and Transmission + B=RHD Man + M=LHD Man + J=RHD CVT + X=LHD CVT + A=Model Change + D=Assembly Plant + 6 figures=serial number -==Air Conditioning. ==- An optional extra, which sits above the passenger's legs and is about 10x10x8cm. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Greg Hilton Drop me an email if you wish to add something useful to these pages. NOTE: Remove the words NOSPAM from the above address to mail me.