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  • GuyW16 July 2018

    Thanks Fergus.
    I realised, after posting the question, that the gap should be set by the thickness of the shelf part of the buffers that go on the sill top. Except with aftermarket stuff like that you can never be sure that they are still made to the original specification. 4mm is about 3/16" which sounds about right, and probably as tight as one would want the gaps to be anyway.

  • Ian Bowers16 July 2018

    The tyre on the front RHS (from the driver's seat) wheel has scrubbed the tread but only on the inside bead. Wear on the other front tyre is balanced across the whole tyre.

    I can understand if the tracking is out that the tyre would wear at the bead, but would expect it to be roughly equal on both.

    Is this a castor or camber problem on this one wheel, and if so can anyone indicate t...

  • Nick and Cherry Scoop16 July 2018

    Had to revive this thread, to complain about the front sidelight/flasher wiring.

    100% wrong so far.

  • paulh416 July 2018

    A pain to engage in what way? Does trying to engage reverse grind? Or simply baulk?

    If it grinds then you have clutch drag, which will also cause 1st gear to baulk.

    If it's baulking without grinding then in 50 years I have never had a gearbox that is completely free from the tendency to do that occasionally, although it is true to say that BL gearboxes (by far the majority of c...

  • Jan Kruber16 July 2018

    Well, anyway, it works much, much better now. I was once convinced on a longer trip yeaterday with the car full loaded with passangers, wife and dog :-). Together with some friends in their Triumph TR250, we drove on small bendy and bumpy roads in this years everlasting summer. We were on faster main roads too. I have no caomplaints, it takes the corners and bumps as never before in my o...

  • paulh416 July 2018

    The American Evironmental Agency largely debunked water problems in ethanol fuels some time ago. I'd give the link but it is no longer active, but must be buried in their archive somewhere:

    "Water vapor, however, dissolves in gasoline very slowly, even at very high humidity. For example, at a constant temperature of 100 degrees F and relative humidity of 100%, it would take well over 200...

  • tm peterson16 July 2018

    There is a reason car mfgs All used will not split and crack with rigors of road use. Regards, Tom

  • J Scragg16 July 2018


    I had overheating problems about 12 years ago. The first thing I did was to have the radiator re-cored with a 3 tube matrix. That solved the problem. the rest of the cooling system is standard. Since then, I remove, reverse flush the radiator and change the coolant every 2 years.


  • AdrianS16 July 2018

    Thanks Nigel.
    I had forgot that 20/50 viscocity is not dissimilar to gear oil.
    I do regularly change the gearbox/overdrive oil and clean the filter - usually every 2 years.
    I fitted a new clutch slave cylinder about 6 years ago but must admit I have not changed the fluid since. Perhaps I ought to run some new fluid through that first and see if that improves access to first and reverse!

  • P Hehir16 July 2018

    There's been a lot of mixing and matching of heads and blocks over the past 65 years so the engine number is not a foolproof guide. Shaved heads with resultant higher compression will also have an impact of the hot/cold aspect and hence the choice of suitable spark plugs. Cheers
    Peter TD 5801

  • MGA 1600 MARK 1. 1960

    MGA 1600 Mk1 1960

    The car was subject to a full body off restoration, late 1990s (numerous photos available), and was acquired by me in 2007 (minimal usage since). Various jobs / improvements completed since then (see below) with various receipts available.

    The car starts and drives well (professionally tuned) and is in excellent overall condition (see photos). The car is not...


    My 1953 YB, with YMG registration number.
    Older body restoration, re-upholstered in 2007 and currently being re-wired by MG specialists.
    13 years in my ownership, and maintained by Peter Edney,Classic and Sports Cars and MG Mecca.
    The usual reluctant sale - offers around 11,000
    Register an interest by email.


    For Sale: 1964 MGB roadster. Been in barn for years. Lots of body panels already cut out. Replacement panels go with it. All original including hardtop, new soft top, 2 tunnel covers priced at $2500 obo.


    The car is presently fitted with bolted removable sebring valances as in photos, which can be unbolted and replaced with the original chrome bumpers as standard. The original seats, and wheels come with the car.

    Price : 3000

  • 57 MGA $4000. OBO

    MGA with small Plinths, and front disc brakes, sitting on a cart and pulled apart with rusted sills. Needs F section repairs, and engine rebuild. Body still mounted to frame. Comes with numerous parts for a rebuild including two engine blocks, one three main, and one five. One professional re-furbed, and powder coated gas tank. Blasted and powder coated black fender splash panels, seat frames, hea...


    MGB, MGB GT, Midgets
    Especially fully restored/clean originals.
    Will view/collect anywhere U.K.