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  • Andy Phillips (frankenfrog)01 October 2014

    Hi Joel,
    If you can send me a sketch of your design i will get it drawn up for you and give you a copy in a number of different formats.

    You would then be able to send it to any machine shop/laser cutting service and they would convert the file to match their machines.

    Can't help with the design unfortunately as my axle is non standard.

    I recently did a rear brake conversio...

  • W. A. Chasser Jr01 October 2014

    This site never ceases to amaze me. Thanks everyone for the info. I'm waiting for the guy to dig it out of his attic. When I find out more I will post. He claims that someone makes kevlar vanes for these back east(?)

  • Andy Phillips (frankenfrog)01 October 2014

    Hi Tommy,
    Perhaps it would help if you could explain a bit more about what you will be offering.

    I assume you are past the first prototype stage if you are confident enough to begin to announce your products to the world so maybe some pictures also would be a help?

  • B W Wood01 October 2014

    Hi guys,

    I see a lot of correspondence about push rod lengths, but does anybody have the details on the ball and cup ends. I don't have any gear to accurately measure the curvature.

    Regards Bernie

  • Lew Palmer01 October 2014

    OK, I just checked and I was somewhat wrong. The later PLC6 switch is somewhat different than the earlier PLC2 switch, so the same problem isn't likely on a T-type,

    On the pre-war PLC2 switch, there are two posts for the key switch whereas there is only one on a TC/TD PLC6. The jumper to the A terminal on a PLC6 is on the outside back of the switch. However, on a PLC2 the jumper is nicely h...

  • Lew Palmer01 October 2014

    Chris, you're on the right track, but no.

  • Christopher Couper01 October 2014

    Well I will take a guess. Once when I did not have a key I discovered I could put a fuse between the two holders and voila, instant ignition.

    But of course this might only be true for cars with a separate fuse block. Not sure if you could make the same 'mistake' with the older 9 post regulator.

  • Lew Palmer01 October 2014

    Although I experienced this problem on an MG PA, I believe the same problem could happen on a T-type.
    I recently converted to an electronic regulator in my 1934 MG PA. Although the regulator had nothing to do with the problem, per se, I did do a lot of wiring.
    The problem was that, although the engine would start fine and all circuits like lights, horn wipers, etc. worked perfectly, the engi...

  • J Bubela01 October 2014

    I think I solved the problem of old oil in the cooler. I have remounted the oil cooler upside down so the oil always flows back to the sump. Over the winter I am redoing my car to add a thermostat. It's an autocross car so its always running in hot weather and full out. No photo now as it is already apart.

  • E. R. Constant01 October 2014

    In my case I have 2 broken leaves on 1 side, all ok on other. I don't want to go the newly manufactured route but I may have to.


    1959 MGA new red paint, new interior, new top, engine runs well, new clutch slave cylinder, needs brake work and recommend new tires
    Auction at Tomah, WI fairgrounds Oct 11, 2014


    Too many other projects and recent illness means I cannot continue to restore this car as it deserves. A once-cherished MGF has had new front wishbones, front discs, brake fluid, hubs, dampers, windscreen, glass hood, brake pipes and tyres fitted. PRT assembly and new coolant pipe available.78,500 miles.
    It needs the clutch bleeding and the underfloor coolant pipes replacing (available). S...

  • MG TD. RHD

    1950. TD with right hand dr
    Chrome wire wheels Paint could use help
    Runs very well.
    In the USA. Wisconsin. $16000


    1976 M.G.B Roadster

    Reg No: LMH 161 P
    M.O.T. Expiry: April 2015
    Chassis No: GHN5398095G
    Engine No: 18V847H-8641

    This B Roadster is ready to enjoy and rally. We are informed the car performs well with no known faults.
    There is some service history which may be viewed on request.

    Estimate: 2,200 - 2,500

    This vehicle will appear in our auction on Wedn...


    Built on a 1500 Heritage body shell including doors, 99% rust free.
    Lenham Midget rear body professionally fitted under the guidance of a member of the original Lenham Sports Car garage. Including a new un-fitted Le Mans bonnet.
    Frontline telescopic front suspension fitted, Spax telescopic rear suspension fitted.
    Includes the following parts:
    1275 gearbox, needs refurbishment


    Unregistered MG Midget 1500, Manufactured February 1979, delivery miles (9) Vermilion, red/black interior and black hood. Complete with all original paperwork etc. Waxoiled and dry stored from new. Not run recently so will require new battery and re commissioning. 15500.


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