MG
The Classic Marque

Les
My understanding is that H&H ignition should only have a 12v coil and needs a 12v supply I.e. no ballast so a DLB101 should be fine. I still think you might need to try the new ignition module with a 3 ohm 12v coil.

John Healey is the new C of E.

We'd all better hope he doesn't follow the theme of the last Healey C of E.

He wanted taxes until the pips squeaked.

Apparently 5.5k-6k is ok, again according to Google. All depends how you ask the question!
Need advice and recommendations from a real human being.

There was a sort of inevitability about this.

The hub nut came off with a bit of leverage, but I can't shift the hub. I've got a couple of pullers - the three-legged ones - but it's surprisingly stubborn, as in utterly immovable.

Any experiences welcome.

Those figures are for non ballast coil, if it was ballast then 5.5k is fine, or at least that’s my understanding.

David
I’m guessing it’s 5.5k (meter set to 20k ohm scale)
According to Google the reading should be 10k.

Just ordered a new coil from Moss.
It’s a Lucas DLB101, but I just know that if I test it will be same as the others!
My existing Lucas DLB101 has a green label, the new one is red! Why are they different, something else to worry about!

Les,

Are your secondary values correct or typos, the secondary should be about 1000x the value you've given. 5K to 10K ohm or possibly more.

Did some tests on both coils;
Primary resistance is 3 ohm which I believe is correct.
Secondary is 5.5 ohm, think it should be over 10 ohm!
Funny how both coils are the same, or is it me?
Coils are a Lucas DLB101 and Bosch Blue 0 221 119 027

If the coil is good I would expect it to get warm, though not too hot. It shows that a current is flowing through the primary. If it remains cold it suggests a fault surely?

I once blew up a coil on my car. It was my own fault. I had left the ignition on without the engine running. It must have stopped with the points shut (earthed) so the primary was carrying a current direct to earth. ...