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TECH TIPS
Floor Pan
Replacement
this is an excerpt from the articles appearing in the
OCTAGON
also see upkeep and performance hints on our message board at board.mgclub.org
by Art Isaacs
Replacement metal panels come from a variety of sources and many steer clear of them from a history of poor quality and fit. These days, if the bigger houses like TRF, Moss and V-B are carrying them, chances are they are of good quality. Overall, my preference is always for the BMH (OEM) style replacement as the accuracy of the match points and bolt holes of the pieces is generally worth the extra cost. My experience with hoods (bonnets) in particular temper that opinion. With floor pans, there is so much fitting, cutting and welding necessary, that this may not be the best deciding criteria. I’d cross-check the catalogs and ask the tech people at TRF their history with the aftermarket type before purchasing. I’ll be posting this on the club site (www.mgclub.org) which you can check and see if anyone else has any experience or strong opinion. Also, talk to your shop about their best method and the costs involved.
As far as the installation goes, the replacement floor pans, whether OEM or aftermarket, are purposely made with oversized flanges to ease installation and maximize the area that can be repaired without getting into the next panel (like the inner sills or battery box area). Your shop might even find it less expensive to replace the entire pan than dealing with creating a new seam across the mid of the floor. As long as you having the work done, it is best to replace as much of the damaged panel as possible. The captive nuts have to be placed where the old ones were or the seats will not fit properly. Though some are punched for the bolt holes, they may not be exactly in the right locations. The new pans can be laid over the old ones in the car and key points marked and measured for more precise placements.
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