MG
The Classic Marque

OK. I see the big thread over at MGExp you have going and others who recommended my approach too.

https://www.mgexp.com/forum/t-series-and-prewar-forum.46/new-angle-on-stuck-differential-plug.5051621/

Looks like you have a temporary solution.

Well we can only hope then, the electorate in Makerfield are sophisticated thinkers like you three. Is there evidence of that?

And just as importantly, who is going to oppose for Reform? Who are they putting up? Better be canny.

It's suggested the Greens and anybody else who'll join them, will row in with Labour, on a keep Farage out ticket.

I'm not so sure Andy Pandy wo...

You have thought of everything I thought of so there is that.

The only other option, and not something I would do with the unit in the car, would be to drill it out wider and wider until you get near the threads and then using a drift or some other tool to push the remaining bits of plug inwards and remove them.

Good luck and let us know how you proceed.

Fit in the pocket is a factor. A jump start pack doesn't. 😉. Although these days, maybe you'll tell me it does. It wouldn't surprise me. Lol.

These are mine. Both a good few years old and still hold their charge like new.

The white one is 5200mah, the black one is 10000mah.

Update

Using the TRW master cylinder my front (disc) brakes were binding after initial application - squeaking like made at low speed and creating loads of dust.
Didn’t know whether the callipers had started to stick. Anyway I decided to buy an AP (Lockheed?) master cylinder. These were not in stock when I got the TRW. Anyway the front wheels are really free to rotate after applying...

A couple of questions:-
Alan Anstead stated that the pedal pushrods will need to be reduced in length to 3.75� when using 3/4� master cylinder - why? According to Moss catalogue the 7/8� and 3/4� pushrods are same part number.

How far does the pushrod screw into the fork? - mine is about 1/4�

The bolts that act as stops for the pushrods- how far do they protrude from the...

Haven't posted much on this site lately, but it was extremely useful when rebuilding the A. So thought a message of thanks to all those who gave help.
Not on FB so thought I would send something to this site.
So today we joined our members of Devon & Cornwall branch of MGCC for a brunch time meeting. The 2nd of 2026. Got the car out and rain started so for the first time in 7 years took i...

Have you looked on youtube for a tutorial?

You'd be amazed what people post on there.

Thanks. I do have a Haynes manual but no longer fully trust them. For the Mk2 it says you have to disconnect the drive shaft (assumedly to get the starter motor out. Apart from the car being parked in the street it seems that when you refit the driveshaft it is torqued up to 203 Lb ft which means I'd need to buy a torque wrench that goes up that high (about £150 halfords or double that for a N...

I happen to have a Haynes manual for up to 2002 Ford Ka.

Seems straightforward:

1. Disconnect battery
2. Jack up front of car (you have to remove it from underneath)
3. Remove air cleaner assembly
4. Unscrew and remove upper starter motor mounting bolt
5. Disconnect wiring from starter solenoid and move aside
6. Unscrew and remove lower starter motor mounting bolt, and...