MG
The Classic Marque

Thanks Willy. Ordered.

My method: 20/50 mineral oil. If you've fitted a new camshaft and followers then start up and IMMEDIATELY rev to 2200 to 2500 and hold it there for 20 mins. After that a few hundred miles but no more than 500, on the same oil is ok, whilst you do shake down tests and adjust and re-bleed brakes. Then drain, change filter and refill with your oil of choice.

Malc

Sounds like a great project for Chevalier Classics to design and get produced new super-dooper half-shafts.

Cheers
Mike

Bob
Now you've done it! Is that after cam work? Mine didnt need a re-bore but the cams were re-faced.

Pete D,
I see what you had in mind now, it has got to be a lot safer too than having to pour in lots of fuel.

One thought I had was that maybe you could set up as sender unit testing and set-up service?

I would have loved to have been able to send you my sender for accurate testing, to find out if it was going to work before I installed it.

Cheers
Colyn

I just run the normal 20/50 then change at 500 miles for more 20/50!

So, sounds like I should use specific running in oil. I'll get some and swop it with the Halfords stuff, which can go back in after about 500 miles.

I have 'some' info like that Bob. Happy to try and help.

Matthew.

I agree with Steve on the carb bowls being a sensitive area for excess heat. I rotated mine on the TF out as far as possible plus installed one of Barrys heat shields and the problem went away. My problem was more heat soak than anything after shutting down for a short period on 90+ degree days.

Used to have this issue with racing pushbikes.
The tyres get pumped up around 180 psi+ and the rubber rim band dissapears down the spoke holes causing cherries to form on the tube then just when you don't want it to happen "BANG" %$^#@ crash ouch
Gaffer tape or plastic tape is useless under the rubber band,it just stretches, the only thing that will hold shape and not go down the hole is f...