MG
The Classic Marque

Would be nice to keep it as it is. I have enough problems with software updates. I don't recognize my cell phone after an unannounced update.

The compensator should rotate in two planes at 90 degrees to each other. I have done as Alan and fitted a grease nipple to the " cube"...

The thread on which the compensator sits lacks lubrication so I add a Grease nipple to the threaded ‘cube’.
Prior to the grease nipple mod’ on one of my cars the thread had ‘hollowed’ over the years so I welded in a new thread which I found to be Whitworth.

The square bit screws on, but not too far as it needs to be free to point straight up. And the arms of the Christmas tree piece need to be at or close to 90degrees to the line of the rods to maximise leverage. Wear in the cylinder leer arms, clevis pins and the brackets on the road ends will all affect this angle. I believe some cars had threaded rods, making them adjustable to compensate.

I remember buying a K&N for the HIF44 on my Mk2 Sprite twenty years ago, but the price couldn't have been too bad. I was poorer then, and would have noticed.

Those Coopers are looking better than I thought.

So, the T rocks! That explains it.
Sadly, mine seems to rock. I will have to wait until my beautiful assistant becomes available, before I can watch it perform, but it probably needs a new cylinder as Tim suggests. I have a couple in stock, and I don't mind doing the swap, but never look forward to the bleeding.

Thank you all.

Nick
I think the compensator is semi "floating" (as you suggest) such that if one rear brake goes fully on, there is still enough play in the compensator to pull the opposite brake's rod tight. The compensator needs to be clean with free movement. Bit of grease on it. Brake shoes should be adjusted BEFORE cable adjustor.

Sounds like the thread on the bracket mounted to the axle may be seized preventing the T from rocking side to side to equalise the tie rod loads. The thread is visible in the image Tim posted.

A pull on the handbrake lever should rotate the compensator anti clockwise (as in image) with equalising pressure, pulling on both brake cylinder levels, in general, equally.

If this doesn't happen, then check both brake cylinders and their levers for correct actuation.

Adjust handbrake cable tension to remove any slack.

Does anybody know how this works? I can't fathom it, because the pivot would need to be floating. Wouldn't it?

Anyway, one side is working - cylinder lever visibly moving, absolutely taut rod, wheel solid. The other is sort of twitching, rod still bendable, with no appreciable braking.