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If anyone has any further information on these wheels please let me know and I will pass it to John who expresses an interest in more information.
Editor's Note: I am afraid that the photocopy of the cards sent by John Young was not of the required clarity for reproduction in 'The Bulletin'. However, Malcolm has copied the text of the wheel changing card.
Carburettor Fuel Bowl Fixing Repair (TC XPAG)
Carburettor Flange Distortion (TC XPAG)
Cylinder Head Pushrod Tube Oil Leaks (XPAG)
Speedo Drive Oil Leak TC
Oil Filter Construction Causes Reduction of Oil Pressure (XPAG)
Distributor Types - TC
I have not used these for years, preferring the 8" TD2/TF flywheel and
clutch, with the added benefit of small, solenoid operated starter motor.
The standard TF clutch works perfectly well for a long time with power
outputs up to about 75bhp at the flywheel, and an MGA twim cam one ought to
cope with well over 110bhp, for obvious reasons! The MGA clutches are
interchangeable on TF flywheels.
It has been well repeated previously over the years that a TC bellhousing needs relieving a bit to allow proper operation. My road going TB, with something between 75 & 80bhp works perfectly happily with a TF clutch. We T-racers use a 7 1/2" Ford Escort (Mk 1&2) diaphragm clutch, on specially lightened flywheels, but that is another story!
Paddy Willmer, Potton, Sandy, Beds.
Rudge - Whitworth Detachable Wire Wheels
I recall discussions some time ago about the correct manner of fitting these wheels. There were those who argued it was not necessary to hammer the wheel nuts tight and those who declared the wheels would not stay put if the bearings were greased or oiled.
When I brought my 18/55 Talbot I took out the leather upholstery on the doors. The bottom half of these doors is strenghtened with sheet metal. On removing this metal I was delighted to find three pieces of card.
The first two items were cards produced by Rudge-Whitworth describing exactly how to fit their wheels. In addition, reference is made to the need to oil the mating surfaces of the hubs and the wheel nuts. The biggest surprise was a chart specifying the tools necessary to assess wear. I have never seen the plugs and rings described in this section either in motoring literature or at autojumbles. Clearly there is more to a decent set of hubs, nuts and wheels than meets the eye.
The last card was a lovely social document recording the fact that my 18/55.
FR7295, had been parked in Orchard Street, Westminster at 4.30pm on 10.5.32
and must leave the parking space by 6.35pm; the penalty being £5 for a first
offence and £10 for a second or subsequent offence. £5 seems an a enormous
amount of money for the time, equivalent to a skilled man's weekly wage,
testifying to the fact that London has always been crowded, if the penalty
for adding to the congestion is anything to go by.
(I have copied the text of the wheel changing card. I hope that it will be possible for the printer to copy the others. - MT) It wasn't! - Ed.
"To Change a Wheel - Undo the locknut by tuning it in the
direction in which the wheel revolves when the car goes forwards.
Pull off the wheel, see that the inside of the spare wheel hub and the outside of the permanent hub are clean and well oiled; push the wheel right home on the inner hub, fill the groove in the lock nut with oil and screw up the lock nut, hammering it tight while the car is jacked up.
It is often found after a change of wheel and a run of 20 or 30 miles a slackness has developed between the nut, wheel and hub, either by the bedding down of the parts or by the grinding away of some dirt that has got there by accident. (This slackness is something wrongly attributed to the locknut unscrewing, a thing which never happens). Therefore after a run of 20 or 30 miles the wheel should be checked for slackness by rocking, that is to say, pushing backwards and forwards on the tyre, and should there be any movement between the nut and the hub the lock nut should be tightened up with a hammer while the car is jacked up. Slackness seldom develops after this second tightening, but it is desirable from the time to examine for slackness by rocking the wheels. The spare wheel should always be carried on a dummy hub, or fitted with a dirt excluder.'
John Young, Harrogate, North Yorks.
30 M.P.H. Warning Lamp
The question posed by Mr. Gordon Royal for an explanation of the operation of the 30 m.p.h. warning lamp ('thirtilite') raises a companion list of other applications for this switch mechanism. The electric switch in the TC speedometer that turns on the 'thirtilite' is a rotary switch that closes at a particular pointer position. This switch consists of a long finger that contacts a silver plated (?) radial arm attached to the deadband (stabilizator) wheel. The silver plated arm is adjustable and rest against an insulating disc of what appears to be a paper reinforced phenolic resin. Since this arm can be rotated to any angle, the switch can be adjusted to close at any desired pointer position (m.p.h.).
If you want a 65 m.p.h. warning lamp rather than a 30 m.p.h. warning lamp, simply rotate the arm. To rest the arm hold the dead band wheel still with one finger and then rotate the arm to its new position by pushing it with a small screwdriver. In fact, there is no impediment to transferring the switch mechanism from the speedometer to the tachometer and thus employing it as an engine r.p.m. warning lamp. Set it to any r.p.m. you choose. These switches, which were included in the later speedometers, can be reset or transferred to activate lights, whistles and bells that comes on at any road speed or engine r.p.m.
Purchase a few of these wonderful old chronometric mechanisms with their
warning switches and you will have enough parts to do anything you want.
Interchange end plates, the dead band wheel, the transfer (recorder) wheel,
the switch bits and you will have constructed the Jaeger Tachometer that
before existed. Chronometric mechanisms are symphonies of mechanical parts
that incorporate many wonderful mechanical subtleties. They are beautifully
made, have interchangeable parts, and with proper tooling are a joy to work
Carl N Cederstrand, Brea, California.email@example.com
I hope you have enjoyed the first edition for 1998. Please keep writing to me Malcolm Taylor, Whisket Green, 56 Daisy Lea Lane, Huddersfield, HD3 3LL.
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