MG
The Classic Marque

I must confess I didn't look closely enough at the 'red wire wobbled' the first time. Viewing it again the voltage seems to go up from below 14v to above 14v with each drop of the tach. I can't tell much from the tach itself as at idle it will drop to zero pretty quickly anyway, but those voltage changes combined with tach flicks could well be indicating that the module is intermittently failing...

Thanks Paul, doing all this testing is less faffy than being on the roadside waiting for a breakdown truck!

Did you expect to see the voltage to change when I was wobbling the red wire causing the stumbles & when I actually managed to stop the engine? I'm not sure if the tach behaviour there was actual sudden dropping or just spooling down!

I can have another go of trying to recr...

Thanks Nat, I appreciate it is a faff doing all these tests when neither of us know what the result will be :o)

A DMM periodically samples an instantaneous value on the leads then processes it before displaying instead of displaying the average that an analogue meter does. When the electronic module is 'open' the coil isn't drawing any current so nominally both terminals will show the sa...

Had kinda the same anti-rust treatment like Bob on my 78 Jaguar XJ6.

It lost the oilfillercap (I didnt put it on right/thight?) and the engine bay was filled with thick oil. LOL!!!

Bit of a job to remove most of it... but its in all the diffecult get to parts too so I dont expect rust there :)

" Trump promises 'total decimation of Iran and says 'it's gonna work out very good' as he gives deadline of tonight for reopening Strait and oil prices surge towards record highs "

Deadline tonight?

Iran's counter threats are equally dire, and can't be dismissed as their not being capable.

So are they bluffing?

Perhaps we'd better hope that at least Iran is all mouth....

Doing the same test again on the coil/module:

Voltage at the black:
https://youtube.com/shorts/uW-YZz7akj8

Voltage at the red:
https://youtube.com/shorts/LJ7QKFfZNqI?feature=share

Guy, agreed. I plug welded my seams as a 3 way "sandwich" with the beading, which I found difficult. I then used filler underneath to seal it and painted with Rustoleum combi color. On top I filled a bit between wing/ bonnet and beading so there was no gap for ingress of moisture (it was also a bit uneven from bonnet edge and wing edge repairs). Similar at the rear.

Great fix Bob. 🙂

some years ago the oil filter to block adapter, gasket failed and sent a lovely stream of hot oil in the direction of that very wing/centre section joint. Never rusted. Periodically I have to remove the oil that oozes out!!

That is kinda my question !

But seriously, you can look at the casting and retaining fixing and work out the ones with the spacer.

The others I think I have the one without the o-ring as there is a different wear line in the body ( I hope ).

The one with the smaller washer was still assembled (the AHS lever arm I am replacing)

The rest (3 off angled one piece fi...