MG
The Classic Marque

Agreed, try the new ignition module.

Thanks Chris, now chapter #2
I learned how to better modify the SU needles from a while back.
My mistake was making the RPM low range was too rich.
I just nailed it filing a second set needles only just passed station #4 to the end of the needle
Still a not as good as I wanted... I found a set of red dashpot springs that had a wire diameter of .026" The red ones that I was using ha...

My dissy is a 25d but the spare (which is incomplete) is a DM2, I think, and has a different baseplate plate.
I would need the wire that fits on the side plus condenser. Nobody sells stuff like this so would need to get it online. It’s going to be quicker just to change the ignition module.

If lamp and/or multimeter is changing that's good (imv). But you say you have a spare dissy, presumably with points. It would be worth trying engine start with that if you're happy to swop them - it's quite straightforward really. Then, if it starts and keeps running, you know it's the existing dissy/ electronic ignition/ possible intermittent internal wire, causing the problem.

Pushed car in gear, light flicked off, literally just flicked off not turned off. Did it about twice for one full engine revolution.
Tried with multimeter, was about 12.3volts. Don’t think it dropped to zero, very hard to tell as it was so quick, literally blink of an eye, looked like 4 volts but so quick hard to tell, then back to 12.3.
Engine still won’t start.

Yes, connect from coil -ve to earth. That will then determine if coil current is being switched on and off by the module to prove it works. That side of the coil should repetitively change from about 12v to 0v I.e. so the lamp would go on and off. A multimeter on DC volts range might be better if you have one. The starter would turn the engine too quickly to enable the lamp to work. Turn engine ...

I wanted to check that power was getting from the switch. Connected to the coil terminal (positive) where the feed wire is. This terminal also connects to the module -red wire. Put other wire to earth.
Light came on when ignition on then off when switching off.
Are you saying connect to the other side of the coil(negative) then turn engine over. Can I use the starter to turn engine over?

Assuming lamp is connected from dissy or dissy side of coil to earth, then, with ignition on, lamp should go on and off repeatedly as engine is turned slowly e.g. by pushing car or turning crank. If it doen't go off the ignition module isn't working. This module could be intermittent (which is what I'd earlier suspected).

Good progress Len. Glad to see its working for you and you have also improved the vapor lock issues too.

AC said that the breather hole only needs to be left open when using a ram pipe, as I was until yesterday. I still don't understand why all the HIF44 baseplates block it. I have no filter at present, just the baseplate with stub stack, so the breather is blocked.

The car started instantly this morning, so I think the main cause of hesitancy was a poor spark.