MG
The Classic Marque

AHH! It seems theres still no replacement rear window seals available. How long can the drought last!

Anam
If the unbranded item is made to the Lucas spec, a replacement rectifier pack should fit. You have to solder it in.

Guy, your comment about supermarkets keeping going is far from the truth, or at least it was 15 years ago when I was involved in the supply chain for three retailers at various times. The levels of redundancy built into the systems was huge, as was the various levels of disaster planning all of which were tested with exercises to check they worked as intended. In fact as someone who headed disaste...

Coincidently I've just replaced my failed alternator.

4000km? You were looky. 😅.

All I got from my 18acr was circa 1500 miles before it stoped charging. I only bought it back in march this year. I'm not sure exactly what's failed; the rectifier or the regulator.

The nut securing the diode pack to the body, and earthing it I assume, came loose and fell off. This stopp...

Hi Paul

Thanks for your comment. We examined the stub axle, the bearing carrier and the flange welded to the end of the axle housing and there is no doubt the stub axle is not square with the axle housing. I'll take some photo's and post them when I get a chance.

I am convinced this is from original. The bearing that came out of that side has been replaced at some point in th...

Hi Flip
Firstly,how do you know the rectifier pack has failed and not the separate regulator component?

You can test the rectifier diodes individually if you have a DMM with diode test. You may have a shorted diode.

Firstly Joe, are you sure you have put the correct half shaft in the correct side?

Although they were not MADE handed over the years because of metal fatigue induced by torque they BECOME effectively handed so check the spline alignment and that the induced twist is in the correct rotation of the diff where the car to be in FORWARD motion.

Now, regardless of you having them in th...

William, I have no idea why it keeps failing. I never shut off the engine using the battery master switch, and I haven’t done any welding on the car. It’s possible there’s a corroded contact, or perhaps a worn carbon brush or slip ring—it did flicker at certain engine speeds. I plan to take the ACR apart; I’ve already ordered a new diode pack. Fortunately, I had another, fully functional...

Still not as bad as the cold war, when 3 days survival clearly wasn't expected with advice to shelter under the kitchen table from a nuclear bomb within 4 minutes.
Yoof of today pretty soft with their level of scaremongering.

It won't make LEDs any brighter, in fact depending on resistances in wiring and connections it could make them dimmer because of the additional current drawn by the resistors (many times that of the LEDs), albeit still brighter than filament bulbs.

You would have to use at least two ballast resistors one for each side, but then you won't know if the corners of the car are lighting up at...