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  • anamnesis10 March 2026

    Thanks Willy. Gotta watch where you drive. Not only watch your p's and q's, but watch tour t's too. Lol.

    Arie, Scientifically Treated Petroleum. Or Special training program. 😉



  • anamnesis10 March 2026

    Not so easy to spot under the rust, but the extra spot welded plate does extend into my spring box. Rust weakened it at the break point.

    It seems to me too, more than a coincidence the horizontal break is along the top of that plate. Even without rust there must be extra stresses. But, it lasted almost 60 years. So perhaps it doesn't matter much; -- as long as the shocks aren't too 'stiff...

  • Alan Anstead10 March 2026

    Can someone please post address & contacts for V & C please that I may pass on to others.

  • anamnesis10 March 2026

    My red circle indicates where some of the metal is missing. Rusted away. I hadn't noticed it. 😬.

  • anamnesis10 March 2026

    My thoughts exactly Guy. Not seized, but definitely stiffer than my originals. And makes me wonder too, on the risks of uprated shocks on standard metal panels. As with uprated roll bars ripping off the standard brackets.

    My existing RHS shock' became too 'soft'. I'd bought a used good pair, and I did wonder if they'd been 'uprated', as although my existing LHS shock seemed fine, -- bounc...

  • A de Best10 March 2026

    Thanks Guy, I mcould try that once ive tryed out the Moss adjusters.
    What engine oil do you put in 20W50?
    Mineral?
    Where does STP stand for?

  • GuyW10 March 2026

    Anam I replaced those triangular brace panels on both my cars as apart from the shocks they pretty well support the whole rear of the car. The steel was quite thick but didn't, AFAIR, have that extra L plate spot welded on.

    Its interesting that on your original the extra bit doesnt appear to extend into the spring box like your replacement part does. Its obviously a high stress area but ...

  • William Revit09 March 2026

    an., Paul's onto it - as he would be.
    Used to set mine up on a wheel aligner but to check nothing had moved or if i had it apart at home, to reset it i used to use a big T square, pumped the tyres up rock hard so there was no bulge at the bottom and measured from the T square to the sidewall of the tyre, top and bottom, the fat parts of the tyre were about 18" apart from memory and had a piece...

  • Jeremy MkIII09 March 2026

    Shocks collected.
    They've been machined to accept new bushes and the internals checked for wear. Apparently a couple of 'pins' needed replacing along with an external cover which was missing and allowing oil to escape 😕

    The proof will be if there is a noticeable improvement when they're fitted but they seem very knowledgeable about lever arms.
    V&C will only work on genuine Armstro...

  • GuyW09 March 2026

    Arie, to increase the damping effect of your mgb dampers, have you considered using a higher viscosity oil? At one time with mine I was using 50:50 mix of engine oil and stp, which has the viscosity of liquid honey. It really stiffened up the front suspension, reducing braking dive and cornering body roll.

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  • XPAG ENGINE PARTS TO CLEAR

    I have just cleared out an old boys workshop and have a quantity of XPAG engine parts to sell.

    Please bear with me, but XPAG isnt my strong point and the list is not complete!

    Cylinder heads 3
    Con Rods 20+
    Camshafts 10+
    Alloy Sump
    Alloy rocker cover and side plate
    Flywheel 3
    Side plates tin
    Pistons, some good used maybe a set of...

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