MG
The Classic Marque

Manley Ford used to have a good setup with a lightened flywheel and a Cortina/Lotus pressure plate. He has a more competition style one now. Probably worth a shout.
https://www.freewebs.com/manley776/apps/photos/

Brown and Gammons sell the same setup: https://www.ukmgparts.com/catalogue/td-midcat-1-subtd37-clutch-and-flywheel
I have the lightened flywheel and it works great.

Looks like Campbell town spent some time up there a few years back testing at the airfield there.

Hi Graham
I fitted a new slave cylinder in my A but soon after I had problems. I dissmantled and found an aluminium piston, which was scored. After checking my old parts I found it had a steel piston. I then bought a new unit making sure it had a steel piston so I suggest you check the type of piston in a new cylinder. I believe the MG guru posted info on his site.
Brian

George: You are right. If you look closely at my picture above you will see the head of the stud is just shy of the top of the nut. About the thickness of the lock washer.

I decided to take the risk.

So perhaps a thinner than normal split washer is in order here.

I have for sale a 1275 Midget fly wheel, this lightened and machined to take a 7.5 " clutch cover.It also has a new starter ring which has a grub screw location.This means that you can fit a replacement Ford cover and pressure plate.This has never been fitted on an engine. Give me a call on 07391352420 .

Graham
What is wrong with your current cylinder?

If it's not seized, corroded or badly scored, it may be worth re-sealing it.
I would be disinclined to buy the cheap aftermarket version. I do think it's very much a case of 'you get what you pay for'.

Hi everyone
It looks like I need to replace the clutch slave cylinder.
Looking at Moss, part no. GSY106 is £46 whereas the after market GSY106Z is just £18. I cant tell what the difference is.
For a car that probably does less than 1,000 miles per year, which should I buy do you think?

The repair kit only seems to be the two rubber seals, so not sure that is the way forward

I ran across some new studs that were either shorter, screwed into the head further or something which left no room for a washer. Original manifold and clamps. Make sure you have enough thread for the full depth of the nut. George

Thanks for the assistance!

I placed two crossing braces across each door opening, using 1/2" conduit flattened on the ends. I used one of the the windshield cowl holes for one brace and an existing mount screw for the other (both on the forward edges of the door frame). I drilled a pilot hole and inserted a wood screw on each of the two ends on the rear edges of the door frame. I noticed...

I have taken apart a few original engines, and never found split washers there. That being said, I think it is a good idea, and re-tightening them from time to time also seems a wise move.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair